The great shave debate: why your razor choice matters in 2026

You're standing in the shaving aisle — or more likely scrolling through one at 11pm — and you're confused. There are cartridge razors with five blades and a "moisture strip" that smells suspiciously like a hotel lobby. There are sleek, heavy safety razors that look like they belong in a 1940s barbershop. And then there's the straight razor, glinting menacingly from the corner of the screen, whispering promises of the closest shave known to man while simultaneously threatening your earlobes.

Which one is actually right for you?

It's one of the most common questions we get at Seven Potions, and it deserves a proper answer — not a vague "it depends" shrug. Your razor choice affects your skin, your bank balance, and honestly, how good you feel walking out the door. A rough, irritated shave sets the tone for the whole day. That's not drama. That's just Tuesday.

We've shaved with all three. We've had the razor burn, the ingrown hairs, the nick that won't stop bleeding before an important meeting. We've come out the other side with strong opinions and the knowledge to back them up. Whether you're new to wet shaving, thinking about ditching your cartridge, or just curious whether the straight razor hype holds up, this is the guide you need.

And if you're the kind of man who also takes pride in what grows on his face, we've got a piece on shaping your beard to flatter your face that goes well with everything we're about to cover here.

The contenders: a breakdown of each razor type

The cartridge razor

The cartridge razor is what most of us started with. It's the Gillette Mach3 your dad left in the bathroom cabinet. It's the five-blade Fusion ProGlide with the precision trimmer on the back and enough branding to sponsor a Formula 1 team. Convenient, familiar, everywhere.

Cartridge razors use multiple blades mounted in a pivoting plastic head that glides across the face and adjusts to your contours automatically. The idea is that each successive blade catches hair the previous one missed, giving you a closer shave with minimal effort or technique required.

And honestly? They work. They're fast, they're forgiving, and you can use them half-asleep. That's not nothing.

But — and this is a significant but — that multi-blade "lift and cut" action comes with a cost. The blades pull hairs slightly above the skin surface before cutting, which sounds clever until those hairs retract below the skin line and become ingrown. If you've got sensitive skin or coarse hair, you've almost certainly felt this. We cover more on skin irritation in our beard skincare routine guide — the same principles apply to shaved skin.

There's also the cost. A four-pack of quality cartridge refills can set you back a serious amount each month, the blades dull faster than you'd hope, and over a year it adds up to considerably more than most men realise.

The safety razor (double edge)

The safety razor — specifically the double-edge (DE) safety razor — is the middle ground, and for many men it's the sweet spot. A single, thin, extremely sharp blade sits in a weighted metal handle. You angle it correctly, use light pressure, and let the weight of the razor do the work.

It sounds simple because it is simple. But there's a technique to it, and that technique takes a week or two to learn properly. Once you've got it, though? You won't look back.

The single blade cuts hair cleanly at the surface without the lifting-and-dragging effect of multi-blade cartridges. This makes it considerably kinder to sensitive skin. Replacement blades cost pennies each — literally fractions of what cartridge refills cost. And a good metal safety razor, looked after properly, will outlast any plastic cartridge handle by decades.

There are also several types of safety razor to be aware of — more on that shortly, because this is the detail most guides completely skip over, and it matters enormously for choosing the right one for your face.

The straight razor

The straight razor. The grandfather of them all. One folding blade, no guard, no pivot, no safety net. Just steel, skill, and absolute commitment to what you're doing.

Used properly — and that word "properly" is doing a lot of heavy lifting there — a straight razor delivers the closest shave physically possible. Barbers have been using them for centuries for a reason. The blade is wide, sharp, and controlled entirely by your hand angle and wrist movement. There's nothing between you and the shave.

The trade-off is everything else. The learning curve is steep. The maintenance is real — stropping before every shave, periodic honing, oiling the blade, storing it correctly. And if you rush, travel with it without thinking, or get distracted, you will absolutely cut yourself in a way that makes cartridge razor nicks look adorable.

It's the most rewarding of the three to master. It's also the most demanding. For most men, especially those new to wet shaving, it's not the starting point — it's the destination.

Head-to-head: comparing razors on what matters most

Sometimes you just need to see it laid out plainly before making a decision.

The cartridge is the convenient option, full stop. The safety razor is where most men should land — better value, kinder to skin, and not particularly hard to learn. The straight razor is for men who want the best shave technically achievable and are prepared to earn it. If you've got the patience for the learning curve, it repays you. Most people don't, and that's fine.

Now let's talk about types of safety razor, because this is where most guides leave you hanging.

Safety razor variations: which one is right for you?

Not all safety razors are built the same. Here are the main types you'll encounter:

1. Closed comb (straight guard): The most forgiving option. A straight safety bar protects the blade edge, making it gentler and more suitable for beginners or men with sensitive skin. This is where to start.
2. Open comb: A scalloped guard that lets more blade contact the skin. Better for thick, coarse beard growth. More aggressive — not recommended for beginners.
3. Butterfly (TTO — twist to open): The doors of the razor head open like a butterfly's wings to swap blades. Incredibly convenient, no fumbling with three pieces. Slightly less rigid than a three-piece head, but excellent for everyday use.
4. Adjustable: The premium option. You can dial the blade exposure up or down depending on your skin, your hair thickness, and even what part of your face you're working on. Worth investing in once you've learned the basics.
5. Three-piece: The classic. Handle, base plate, and top cap — unscrew to load a blade. Simple, reliable, easy to clean thoroughly. What most traditionalists use.

If you're just getting started, a closed-comb three-piece or butterfly razor is the move. Our Double Edge Safety Razor is built for exactly this — weighted for control, designed to give a close shave without punishing a beginner's technique.

Mastering the technique: how to get the best shave with each razor

Cartridge razor technique

Not much to say here, and that's kind of the point. Wet your face, apply shaving cream or gel, shave with the grain for the first pass, rinse, done. The pivoting head handles most of the work. The main advice: don't press too hard, and replace your cartridge more frequently than you think you need to. A dull cartridge is the number one cause of cartridge-related irritation.

Safety razor technique (step by step)

This is where we're going to spend proper time, because this is what most guides completely skip. And it's the difference between a great shave and a face that looks like you lost an argument with a cat.

1. Prepare your skin. Shave after a shower when possible — the steam opens pores and softens hair. If not, press a warm wet towel to your face for a minute first. A pre-shave oil applied before your shaving cream adds protection and slip, particularly on the jawline where the angles get awkward. We covered the full case for it in our pre-shave oil deep-dive.
2. Load your blade correctly. On a three-piece razor, unscrew the handle, place the blade on the base plate with the holes aligned, then screw the top cap on firmly but not overtightened. The blade should sit flat and centred. On a butterfly razor, twist the bottom knob, blade in, twist back. Thirty seconds, no drama.
3. Find the correct angle. This is the big one. Place the top cap flat against your cheek, then slowly lower the handle until the blade engages the hair — that's roughly 30 degrees, and that's where you want to stay. Too steep and you're scraping. Too shallow and you're not cutting. Feel it rather than measuring it.
4. Use zero pressure. The weight of the razor does the cutting. Your job is to guide, not to push. Pressing down is the single most common beginner mistake, and it produces razor burn almost immediately. Float the razor across your skin.
5. Shave with the grain first. Map your facial hair growth direction before you start — it's rarely uniform across your whole face. First pass goes with the grain. A second pass across the grain if needed. Against the grain comes last, if at all, and only once you're experienced.
6. Short strokes on tricky areas. Under the nose, the jawline, the neck — these need short, controlled strokes. Rinse the blade every two or three strokes to keep it cutting cleanly rather than dragging.
7. Cold water to finish. Cold water tightens pores and knocks back post-shave redness. Follow with a balm — more on that below.

I'll be honest: the first week with a safety razor, you will almost certainly nick yourself somewhere stupid. Everyone does. It's part of learning the pressure and the angle simultaneously. Push through it. By week two, you'll wonder what took you so long.

Straight razor technique

If you're committed to the straight razor, here's the honest overview. Strop the blade before every shave — 15 to 20 laps on a leather strop to align the edge. Hold the razor with your dominant hand, blade edge away, with your index finger on the spine for control. The angle is roughly 20 to 30 degrees. You stretch the skin with your free hand constantly — this is essential, not optional. Work in sections: cheeks, then sideburns, then the upper lip, then chin, then neck. The neck goes last because it's the most variable terrain.

Every few months, a straight razor needs honing — either by you with a whetstone (a skill in itself) or by a professional. It also needs to be dried thoroughly after every shave and lightly oiled before storage. It demands respect. Give it that, and it repays you handsomely.

Beyond the blade: essential tools for the ultimate wet shave

Here's a truth that most shaving guides gloss over: the razor is only part of the shave. What you put on your face before, during, and after the blade matters just as much — possibly more if you have sensitive skin.

The shaving brush

A proper shaving brush does two things a can of aerosol gel can't. It lifts hairs away from the skin before the blade arrives, and it works the lather deeper into the stubble, softening it properly. This alone reduces friction and the pulling sensation you get when shaving over under-prepared hair. Badger or synthetic bristle — both work well. Use circular motions to build lather directly on your face, not just in a bowl.

Shaving cream

Skip the aerosol foam if you can. Our Shaving Cream creates a dense, protective lather that cushions the blade and holds moisture against the skin throughout the shave. A pea-sized amount with a wet brush generates far more lather than you'd expect — enough for a full face and neck, twice over. It smells better than a pressurised can of chemicals, too. That's just a bonus.

The Seven Potions products that belong in your shave routine

This is the part where the shave ends and the skin care begins — and it matters enormously, especially if you're switching from a cartridge to a safety razor while your skin adapts.

Post shave balm: Our Post Shave Balm calms the skin immediately after shaving. It contains aloe vera (which soothes inflammation and redness), witch hazel (a natural astringent that tightens pores and reduces irritation), and allantoin (which promotes cell regeneration — useful for skin that's just had a blade run across it several times). A small amount, pressed gently into the face while the skin is slightly damp, absorbs quickly and leaves no greasiness. Apply it. Every time.

Anti ageing moisturiser: Once the post-shave balm has settled — give it 60 seconds — follow with our Anti Ageing Moisturiser. Shaving is exfoliating by definition. It removes a layer of dead skin cells along with the hair, which is great for skin texture but leaves the fresh skin underneath exposed and vulnerable to moisture loss. Our moisturiser contains hyaluronic acid, which draws and holds water in the skin, and retinol-precursor ingredients that support collagen over time. A penny-sized amount, applied upward in light strokes, is all you need. Your skin will feel significantly better by the afternoon, and considerably better over months.

Beard oil (for the edges): If you're maintaining a beard with defined edges — keeping some facial hair while shaving the cheeks and neck clean — apply a few drops of beard oil to the beard itself after shaving. Our oils contain jojoba oil, which mimics the skin's natural sebum and absorbs without blocking pores, plus argan oil, which is high in oleic acid and vitamin E. Both condition the beard hair and the skin beneath it. This keeps the border between shaved and bearded skin looking clean, healthy, and intentional — rather than like a boundary dispute.

For more on how beard oil and balm work together as a routine, we wrote a full layering guide if you're maintaining a styled beard alongside your shave.

Tips and tricks: getting the most from your razor in 2026

• Replace blades before they feel dull, not after. How long a safety razor blade lasts depends on your hair coarseness — some men get five shaves, some get ten. Don't wait until you're dragging — change it proactively. Our Feather Double Edge Safety Razor Blades are among the sharpest widely available — excellent for experienced users, and worth trying once you've nailed your angle and pressure technique.
• Don't map your grain in the shower. Wet stubble lies flat and can mislead you about growth direction. Map it dry, by running your finger across your face in different directions until you feel resistance.
• Stretch your skin, especially on the neck. The neck is where most safety razor beginners catch themselves. Pull the skin taut below the shaving area with your free hand. This flattens the surface and reduces the chance of the blade catching folds or dipping into contours.
• If you're switching from cartridge to safety razor, give it two weeks. Your skin has been accustomed to a certain type of mechanical action. The first few shaves may produce minor irritation as your technique develops. This is normal. Persist with proper prep — pre-shave oil, warm water, quality cream — and the irritation will disappear.
• Cold water rinse, always. End every shave with cold water, not warm. It closes pores, reduces post-shave redness, and improves how your skin looks for the next several hours.
• Don't over-shave sensitive areas. On the upper lip and lower neck especially, one pass with the grain is often enough. Multiple passes on these zones compounds irritation rapidly — especially with a safety razor while you're still learning.
• Try the full kit before dismissing the ritual. A good brush, proper cream, and a well-maintained razor make shaving into something you'll want to do rather than something you get out of the way. Our Full Shave Kit has everything in one place if you want to start properly.
• For travellers: Pack your safety razor in checked luggage with blades. A bladeless handle goes in carry-on without issue. Cartridges are fine in either. Straight razors in a roll-case go in checked bags only — airport security will not negotiate on this, and you'll lose the argument every time.
• Look after your skin beyond the shave. If you want a complete night-time approach to skin recovery, we've put together a men's night skincare routine that covers exactly that. The skin does most of its repair work while you sleep.

Frequently asked questions

Is a safety razor really better than a cartridge?

For most men, yes — particularly those with sensitive skin or a tendency towards ingrown hairs. The single blade cuts hair cleanly at the surface rather than dragging it upward before cutting, which reduces irritation considerably. The long-term cost savings are also substantial, since replacement DE blades cost a fraction of cartridge refills.

Do safety razors give a closer shave?

A properly used safety razor delivers an excellent, very close shave — closer than the average cartridge shave when technique is solid. The straight razor technically achieves the closest shave possible, but for everyday use the safety razor is outstanding. Closeness with a DE razor depends heavily on blade sharpness, correct angle (around 30 degrees), and zero applied pressure.

Is it worth switching to a safety razor?

For most men, yes. The learning curve is real but short — typically one to two weeks before technique feels natural. After that, you get a better shave, healthier skin, considerably lower ongoing costs, and far less plastic waste. The only men for whom a cartridge might remain the better daily choice are those who travel constantly and need absolute convenience.

The verdict: which razor is right for your face and lifestyle?

If you want convenience above all else — mornings are chaotic, you travel frequently, and a good-enough shave in two minutes is perfectly acceptable — the cartridge razor is fine. Just use good prep, replace cartridges regularly, and treat your skin kindly afterwards.

If you want a better shave and lower long-term costs — and you're willing to spend a fortnight learning a technique — the safety razor is the answer. Start with a closed-comb or butterfly-head razor, use light pressure, master the 30-degree angle, and let the blade do the work. Most men who make the switch say the same thing: they wish they'd done it earlier.

If you want the absolute pinnacle of shaving — and you have the patience for the ritual and the skill it demands — the straight razor is waiting. It rewards commitment with the closest shave you will ever experience. Earn it. Start with a safety razor, get your wet shaving fundamentals solid, then graduate to the straight when you're ready.

Whatever you choose, the products around the blade matter just as much as the blade itself. Proper prep, a decent cream, and a post-shave balm followed by a moisturiser will do more for your skin's long-term condition than any razor upgrade alone. Get the fundamentals right and the shave takes care of itself.